Wild About Artichokes by Roberta Beach Jacobson photography Alf B. Meier
~ it's windy with goats and artichokes too ~
On our first trip to the Greek island of Karpathos where we now make our home, a
stranger in the street approached us and handed us two artichokes he had
just picked. He wished us Godspeed in our travels and thus we were
introduced to this wild vegetable.
As luck would have it, our back yard is filled with these wild plants,
wonderfully thriving artichokes! We hadn‘t noticed any of the strange
vegetable back there the first time we looked at the property. The second
time we saw the house, some four months later, was when we moved in. By then
the back yard was a carpet of deep purple puff balls about the size of a
fist - ignored artichokes nobody had picked. The stalks were over a foot
high and bone dry, about fifty strong. A very curious sight.
All the year‘s rain falls on 40 or 50 winter days here and rivers form on
the sidewalks and down the steps. Early in the year, deep green artichoke
leaves show up and the vegetable core becomes evident in April or May. Most
plants have just one large artichoke, though some plants sport two smallish
ones. Both the stalks and the artichokes themselves are prickly. I would
recommend wearing gloves unless you grow the "bulb type" of the vegetable
(with no prickers).
In May or June we can (gingerly) harvest this wild crop of ours. At the
outset, we were quite unsure what to do with the bowls of raw artichokes
we‘d collected. Our limited experience in eating this vegetables meant a
pizza topping. Most of our first year‘s crop landed in salads. We weren‘t
very creative.
Artichoke training
One spring day a kindly neighbor invited me into her kitchen for artichoke
school. She showed me how to rub the freshly cut and peeled heads with a
lemon so they wouldn‘t brown. (Vinegar also works.) She showed me a one-pot
vegetable dish - potatoes, broad beans and artichokes. The other important
point, she told me, was to add generous amounts of sea salt and olive oil.
Greece has poor soil conditions due to erosion and a shortage of trees, so
the deep roots of artichoke plants play an important role in holding in the
earth on hillsides. If you‘re wondering how strongly they are rooted, I can
tell you I once bent garden shears trying to cut an artichoke plant. Our
artichokes prosper even though our garden is chock full of rocks and stones,
far too many to remove. With little intervention on our part, our crop
increases year-by-year. We peel and blanch every one and this spring we
expect we‘ll have over 200. We have completely given up on those artichoke
salads, due to the over-abundance of lettuce, tomatoes, bell peppers, onions
and cucumbers in our garden.
The artichoke‘s edible parts include the whitish bottoms of the bracts, the
heart cleaned of the fuzz and the interior of the stem. Our favorite dish is
artichokes simmered with lamb, carrots and onions, but half our yield of the
wild vegetable ends up in the freezer. Though we‘re wild about artichokes,
two people can consume only so many.
There‘s a natural routine for this work. The best time to harvest is when
the tops are just beginning to open and one should watch out for any stems
with obvious worm holes. We split the work so we collect and prepare about
40 artichokes per week during the season.And, the way expats confront any new challenge,
we simply learn as we go.
Roberta Beach Jacobson is an American freelancer who left Chicagoland in 1974 on a European vacation and never went back. She
makes her home on a remote Greek island, with publishing credits that include Travel Smart, Transitions Abroad and International Living.
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